Frigiliana

A group from Malaga went to see Frigiliana, a preserved white town above Nerja. Fortunately, we arrived early! Why fortunately? Because it is, clearly, well-and-truly on the tourist map.Climbing, as Andalucian inland towns tend to be, up the mountain, many streets are steps. There were also arched stepped alleyways tunneling into the blocks. It was reminiscent of Shakespeare plays, Perugia in Italy and a hidden dry-stone-wall town in Oman. – in other words, a town that has grown out of the mountain.

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You have a choice of 2 streets – one going up gently and one going up steeply. We started gently – like most others it seems. The street is full of tourist tack waiting for the coaches to unload more and more people onto the narrow street. There was very little information about the town. There was, however, an interesting derelict factory-type building, but when I looked in the only door, it was just another handicraft shop.

There are a few excellent craft shops if you’re looking for souvenirs, and maybe the restaurants are good, but we were there too early to find out. The cafe where we relaxed over coffee was very pleasant and untouristy with a fabulous view.

So, we left the steep street for another time when we could arrive ahead of the crowds.

I might have felt more appreciative of the town if I had believed that there were Frigilianans sitting at home to avoid the crowds – but there was a self-satified air of expat affluence.

If I’m doing Frigilianans an injustice, I apologise. But when on a sight-seeing trip, one only sees the surface – and this is what I saw.

For me, the most interesting part of the trip was the great new motorway high up above Malaga and the coastal towns. Fully expecting to go along the usual bus route close to the sea, I wasn’t paying much attention – until, looking up, the whole panorama of Malaga was laid out before us. I’ll go along there again just to find the best places where one can stop and enjoy the view.

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